Main article: Intel's first generation GPUs. Graphics Launch Market Code name Device id. RAMDAC model (/) support Hardware acceleration Intel740 1998 Desktop stand-alone Auburn 7800 220 1 3.0 (SW) / No 5.0 1.1 No 0.8 2–8 Optional external MPEG-2 decoder via Video Module Interface No No 752 1999 Portola 1240 250 6.0 (full) 8.0 (some features, no hardware shaders) 0.8–1.067 1.067(AGP 4× for ) 8–16 MC 3D graphics with Direct AGP Whitney 7121 230 32 810-DC100 7123 810E 810E2 7125 2000 815 815E 815G 815EG Solano 1132 6.0 (full) 9.0 (some features, no hardware shaders) Second generation Intel marketed its second generation using the brand Extreme Graphics. These chips added support for texture combiners allowing support for OpenGL 1.3. Graphics Launch Market Code name Device id. Core render model (/) support Hardware acceleration Extreme Graphics 2002 Desktop 845G 845GL 845GV Brookdale 2562 200 2 3.0 (SW) / No 6.0 (full) 9.0 (some features, no hardware shaders) 1.3 ES 1.1 Linux No 2.1 64 MC No No 2001 Mobile 830M 830MG Almador 3577 166 1 Extreme Graphics 2 2003 Desktop 865G 865GV Springdale 2572 266 6.4 Mobile 852GM 852GME 852GMV Montara 3582 133–266 2.1–2.7 854 358E 855GM 855GME 3582 Third generation.
Intel® Power Gadget is a software-based power usage monitoring tool enabled for Intel® Core™ processors (from 2nd Generation up to 7th Generation Intel® Core™ processors). Intel® Atom™ processors are not supported. Mar 27, 2017 - Optane consists of 3D XPoint memory, Intel memory and storage controllers, Intel interconnect IP, and Intel software. 3D XPoint memory is a.
Main article: Third generation consists of integrated graphics processing units with DirectX 9 support. Even though they are DirectX 9 compliant, vertex shaders are created in software by the CPU, resulting in some games not working due to the missing on hardware vertex shaders. Graphics Launch Market Code name Device id. Main article: Intel released its latest generation of integrated GMA chipsets.
The fourth generation consists of Shader Model 3.0 and 4.0 integrated graphics with hardware support for both vertex and pixel shaders. Graphics Launch Market Code name Device id. Main article:. Each EU has a 128-bit wide FPU that natively executes eight 16-bit or four 32-bit operations per clock cycle. Main article:. Each EU has a 128-bit wide FPU that natively executes eight 16-bit or four 32-bit operations per clock cycle. Double peak performance per clock cycle compared to previous generation due to fused multiply-add instruction.
The entire GPU shares a sampler and an. Main article:. 1 ALUs: EUs: Subslices. Each EU contains 2 × SIMD-4 FPUs and has double peak performance per clock cycle compared to previous generation. Each Subslice contains 6 or 8 (or 10 in Haswell GPUs) EUs and a sampler, and has 64 KiB shared memory. 64-bit floating-point performance is 1/4 of 32-bit floating-point performance.
(1.0) means incomplete Vulkan 1.0 support. Main article:. 1 ALUs: EUs: Subslices. Each EU contains 2 x SIMD-4 FPUs.
Each Subslice contains 8 EUs and a sampler (4 tex/clk ), and has 64 KiB shared memory. 64-bit floating-point performance is 1/4 of 32-bit floating-point performance. 16-bit floating-point (or integer) performance is 2x 32-bit floating-point (or integer) performance. For Windows 10, the total system memory that is available for graphics use is half the system memory. For Windows 8, it is up to 3840 MB.
On Windows 7, it is up to about 1.7 GB through. Main article:. 1 ALUs: EUs: Subslices. Each EU contains 2 x SIMD-4 FPUs. Each Subslice contains 8 EUs (two of which are disabled in GT1) and a sampler (4 tex/clk), and has 64KiB shared memory. 64-bit floating-point performance is 1/4 (1/8 in ) of 32-bit floating-point performance. 16-bit floating-point (or integer) performance is 2x 32-bit floating-point (or integer) performance.
For Windows 10, the total system memory that is available for graphics use is half the system memory. For Windows 8, it is up to 3840 MB. On Windows 7, it is up to about 1.7 GB through DVMT. WDDM 2.2 support with Windows Mixed reality begins with KabyLake-based GPUs. Specifications of Intel HD Graphics series Graphics Launch Market Code name Core config 1 support eDRAM Min Max HD Graphics 500 2016?? Atom x5-E3930 (Gen9LP) 5A85 400 550 96:12:2 12 4.5 Windows 4.5 Linux ES 3.2 Linux 1.2 Windows 2.0 Linux 1.1 Windows 1.1 Linux - 68.2 Atom x5-E3940 600 Mobile Celeron N3350 200 650 38.4 Celeron N3450 700 Desktop Celeron J3355 250 700 Celeron J3455 750 HD Graphics 505?? Main article: Specifications of Intel PowerVR-based series Graphics Launch PowerVR core Market Code name Device id.
Core render model (/) support Hardware acceleration GMA 500 2008 SGX535 CE3100 2E5B? 2 3.0 9.0c 2.0 — 4.2 256 Full Full Full 2009 Atom CE4100 Atom CE4110 200 Atom CE4130 Atom CE4150 400 Atom CE4170 2010 Atom CE4200? 2008 UL11L (Menlow) 8108 8109 100 US15L 200 US15W GMA 600 2010 MID Atom Z6xx 4102 400 2 3.0 9.0c 2.0 — 6.4 759 Full Full Full GMA 2012 SGX540 Atom Z2460 (Medfield)? 400 4 — — ES 2.0 — 6.4 1024 Full Full Full GMA 3600 2011 SGX545 Nettop Netbook Atom D2500 Atom N2600 (Cedar Trail) 0BE0 0BE1 0BE2 0BE3 400 4 3.0 9.0c 3.0 — 8.5 6.4 1024 Full Full Full GMA 3650 Atom D2700 Atom N2800 640 8.5 GMA 2012 Atom Z2760 (Clover Trail) 08C7 08C8 08C9 08CA 08CB 08CC 08CD 08CE 08CF 533 4 3.0 9.0c 2.0 — 6.4 2048 Full Full Full See also.
Notes Acronyms The following acronyms are used throughout the article. EU: Execution Unit.
iDCT: Inverse. iMDCT: Inverse.
LF: In-loop. MC:. VLD: (sometimes referred to as slice-level acceleration). WMV9: codec Full hardware acceleration techniques Intel graphic processing units employ the following techniques in of playback. Antognetti, P.; Anceau, F.; Vuillemin, J.
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This tutorial will teach you how to upgrade your Memory (aka, RAM) in your Intel Mac Mini. Note: If some of the images do not show up, try refreshing your browser.
Update: I found out that Upgrading your RAM in your Mac Mini will not Void your Warranty unless you break something yourself. (Thanks to some of the guys hear on AI!) Items need for upgrade:.A putty knife (or two, if you feel you need it).Medium sized philips screw driver.And a small flat head screw driver This upgrade tutorial is for the Intel Core Solo, Core Duo and Core 2 Duo Mac Mini. The Intel Mac Mini uses PC2-5300 200-Pin DDR2 SODIMM memory running at 667Mhz. You can buy this type of memory on Newegg.com in the Memory section and other various sites.
In this case I am upgrading a Core 2 Duo Mac Mini 1.83Ghz which only has 1GB of RAM in it. I will be upgrading it to 2GB of RAM from Corsair.
First, lay your Mac Mini upside down. Get your putty knife and carefully squeeze it in between the aluminum and plastic around the outer rim on the bottom of the Mini. Then bend the putty knife outward (away from the mini) until the Mini pops out a little, do this around all three sides until it looks like this: Carefully take the Mini out: Look! There's the inside of the Mini! All carefully crammed together.
So take out the screws in each corner using your Medium sized philips screw driver: Here's screw #2: Screw #3: Screw is hidden under the Airport Antenna. To take that off, squeeze the two plastic pieces under it using your thumb and index finger: It should pop off, revealing the screw you can now take out: Next, in the front of the Mini, under the Optical drive and to the right of the Battery, there's a little black wire you need to unplug. Do so by prying it up with your Small flat head screw driver: It should be out like this: Continued in Next Post. Part Two: Now, being very careful, slowly pull the top half of the mini Up then over and lean it on the Back Ports: Now, you have two options: 1. You can finish the upgrade without doing the next two steps. Continue by unhooking the orange ribbon cable that connects the Optical drive and Hard drive to the Motherboard: This can be done by taking out the brown plastic piece which is wedged between the orange ribbon and the white slot. You can use your finger nails or the Small flat head screw driver to do this.
Look! It's really small.
You can read what kind of memory it is on the label: Now of course, let's take them out! Using to fingers or your thumbs push down and out on the two silver metal brackets which hold the RAM in. This will make the first memory stick pop up, now carefully pull it 'out' not up. Do this to both sticks. Next, put in your new Memory, making sure they are secured in each RAM slot: Now, reassemble your Mac Mini, simply follow the directions in reverse order.
Once it's all packed together again turn it on and check it out: If you have any questions please post them! I'll be glad to help Hope this helped you upgrade!
That was a very good How To. I'm watching out the window for the UPS truck carrying my 2GB upgrade at this very moment. Hopefully I won't screw anything up.
This will be my first time cracking open a Mac. I can't wait to see how well this machine runs with 2GB of RAM. I have the first generation 1.66GHz Core Duo with 512MB of RAM running Leopard 10.5.1. So far, Leopard runs great, but it uses all of the available RAM with just Safari, Mail and Adium. I hope to see a dramatic improvement in World of Warcraft, which runs pretty well as it is, just a little laggy in spots.
Originally Posted by smee Thanks! Lol, I like looking out the window waiting for a UPS I love there speedy service too. Hope all works out for you, let me know how it goes! Parker Whoops!
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Instead of hitting reply, I accidentally hit report. I don't know why the hell I did that or why I didn't notice it as I was typing away. I don't want to retype all of that. In short, the upgrade when well.
Leopard is much snappier now. Like the other guy said, I didn't feel the need to unhook the drives, I just flopped them out of the way. Thanks for the guide, it was much more detailed than the others. I had a bit of frustration getting the screws back on. All in all, it was a little more challenging than upgrading a typical PC, but well worth it.
I ended up having to do the process twice because I didn't get the top chip seated correctly. It wouldn't go all the way into the slot unless it was at an angle. Anyways, thanks for the guide, it was very useful. For anyone interested in upgrading their mini's RAM, I will tell you want to expect performance-wise.
Expect Spotlight to provide results instantly instead of lagging for a few seconds. Expect menus to pop up faster. Cover Flow will improve dramatically, as will Stacks. I haven't gotten into too much depth with it yet, but I expect GarageBand and iMovie to work much better. Hopefully it will solve some latency issues with GarageBand. IPhoto indexing seems much quicker.
All in all, it's been completely worth the $55. Crucial.com has great prices. Lol, thats funny I'm glad it went well for you! Last night I took my mini completely apart (the motherboard, hd, optical drive and everything was out of the case), I wanted to see what kind of hard drive was in there.
I know I could have gone to system profiler, but I wanted it hands on I did this because I'm thinking of upgrading the CPU, Optical Drive, Hard Drive and RAM (to 4GB). I'm also looking into switching out the graphics chip to the GMA X1300, not sure if its possible though. I want to see how fast I can get this mini to go. SMEE, thanks a ton for posting this how-to! Without it, I would have paid for Apple's RAM upgrade, and I'd be running with 2GB instead of 4GB (3.xGB, really), and paid more for it. Being a total Mac newbie, here are some notes from having just done this to my new 1.83GHz Mini.
I concur with the other poster about not removing the brown ribbon cable for the optical drive. I'm normally leery of messing with this type of connector, and you can do the job without removing the brown cable. The gap in the case is pretty tight between the white base and the silver shell. I had to use a pretty slim putty knife (it'd been sharpened to a knife edge, actually, for a prior project); the first putty knife was too thick to wedge in the crack without marring the case getting it in.
In a pinch, one could slide a flat chef's knife in the gap just to make the crack wide enough to get the putty knife started (don't pry with a knife). I used 2 putty knives - the first one to pry the base upward (i.e., outward on the shell, as the OP described), and a second putty knife following behind it, catching notches in the side of the base to keep it from dropping back down. A flat screwdriver would work for this 2nd tool too. On mine, screw is an oddball with a wider head. The other 3 look interchangeable.
You really need a small Philips head with these screws, and the screwdriver needs to be fairly skinny and long (a la pocket screwdriver style). I put in a pair of Patriot 2GB SO-DIMMs that Frys.com is selling for $38 apiece (about $90 for 4GB with 2-day shipping). At the moment, it's $7 cheaper to buy separate 2GB sticks instead of the 4GB kit from the same manufacturer. I got part - if somebody sees a reason this SO-DIMM module isn't correct, please let me know.
So far, my Mac's still working. Seating the memory DIMMs is a tight fit - while at a slight angle, they need to be pressed into the slot until the top edge of the gold contacts are barely visible; this can take a pretty firm hand.
Once inserted, latch it down. If you haven't done this before, take note of how far inserted the old DIMMs are before you remove them. Check the Airport antenna connector before re-assembling - it'll try to come loose from the board (seen in the background of the OP's pic with the brown ribbon connector).
There's a pair of wires near the mounting post by the power jack - take note of how it's routed before you disassemble. They like to get in the way during re-assembly. Putting the optical drive back in is pretty snug fit. Mine had to be jostled the last little bit before the mounting posts were flush.
Don't forget the little connector you unplugged. Screw was a challenge to get started back in the hole - I needed a magnet on the screwdriver to keep the screw attached to it. Hole is an open bracket but this isn't obvious from the shadows (at least at my kitchen table, er. Anti-static workbench); just dropping the screw in the 'hole' won't work like it does on.
Check that the Bluetooth antenna wire is back in the clips along the side of the drive, between screws 1 and 2. The case is a tight fit to close. My fit wasn't completely flush on the back near the power switch, but re-opening / checking / re-closing it doesn't look like anything's in the way, and it's fully clipped closed. I'm not sure if that's how it was from the factory. Anybody know? I hope these extra tips help the next newbie brave the upgrade too! Cheers, Richard.
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